LJI Brockton Villa and The Cottage Reviews
Written by Ron Jones
In some neighborhoods, particularly the tired and near-seedy, shiny gentrification can be a welcome upgrade, except in the eyes of those who are sensitive to the importance of maintaining glimpses of a community’s past, especially those historic elements that make it special. The geographic wonders of La Jolla are eternally on full display for visitors and locals alike, however, with a little guidance from we Insiders, you can be transported to another time when La Jolla was young and only then was being discovered by the world for its natural beauty and structural charms. Today we feature two restaurants with ties to yesterday: Brockton Villa and The Cottage.
Brockton Villa: Time Tripping At The Cove
Escapist fare is a transformative menu phrase often used by restaurant reviewers; we could happily reference the familiar Brockton selections as escapist, as well. However, matching the comfortable plate offerings is the restaurant structure itself: a slice of La Jolla’s past. Settled into a hillside at the end of La Jolla Coast Blvd., above the crescent-shaped La Jolla Cove with an extraordinary unbroken gulls-eye view of the coastline, this former bungalow built in 1894 on land purchased for $165 by a La Jolla physician as a weekend retreat, was taken over by two sisters upon his passing – La Jolla’s first real estate agents, establishing the property as perhaps the first of several local short term vacation rentals. Through the 1940’s the house was occupied by Moreland MacPike, known to many as the “Turtle Lady.” She was described as a very shy woman who had a performing turtle. Rumor has it that she and her piano-playing pet once entertained President Truman at the White House. Fast forward to the 1990’s when Pannikin, a well established coffee roasting company and eventual iconic breakfast and lunchspot, obtained the lease to this historic but now dilapidated property to revive it and adapt it for use as a restaurant. Pannikin founder Bob Sinclair had a strong commitment to preserving the community’s architectural heritage and has renovated and adapted other attention needy La Jolla buildings.
In 1993, Pannikin won the prestigious orchid award for preservation for its distinctive renovation of the Brockton Villa cottage. Megan (Lee) Heine, daughter of the Pannikin family, took ownership of the Brockton Villa Restaurant in 1994, and the remaining Pannikin coffee business was sold to outside interests. (Special note: The Pannikin, now known as Lili’s, (one of our favorites) an Italian-slanted pastry and coffee breakfast and lunch eatery on upper Girard St. and reviewed by La Jolla Insider blogger Mike Mazaika, is a another classic example of a 1960’s home-to restaurant-mutation, and well worth a visit).
Brockton Villa has three distinctively differing menus guaranteeing satisfaction at brunch time, lunch or dinner. For brunch we favor The Big Bad Wolf: three steamed-scrambled eggs (no oil or butter used), pork sausage, Canadian bacon, applewood smoked bacon, cheddar, creme fraiche, green onions, with either choices of a side salad, breakfast potatoes, or toast. Of course any of the omelets are worthy of note (including the carne, garden and traditional Benedict): The Lobster: Maine knuckle and claw, tomato, spinach leeks, lemon hollandaise, served with a choice of side salad or breakfast potatoes and toast. The breakfast burritos or tacos are spot on and filling. For fun, give the fresh blueberry ricotta pancakes with lemon icing a sampling. These suggestions are meant to get your day started. For a complete view of the lunch and dinner entrees, go to brocktonvilla.com and click on Our Menu.
Breakfast at The Cottage: A La Jolla Favorite
It doesn’t take much imagination to fondly picture a La Jolla cottage. Their familiar frames still dot the community: Those remarkable relics of a not so long ago era when The Jewel was a smaller locality. There are longtime locals who regret the all too frequent losses of our history to the developer’s bulldozers purportedly in the name of progress. The Cottage Restaurant – an urban renewal survivor – is a prime example of early mid century beach modernist architecture sited at the corner of Fay and Kline Streets and eminently visible to all motorists and pedestrians who hourly pass through the busy intersection. What is particularly unique, in a promotional sense, is the always packed, large open-air wide tiled patio shaded for outdoor dining with multi-table seating set behind white picket fencing. Just like noting the many trucks parked at a freeway roadside diner being a solid indicator of a popular menu, the daily jammed Cottage outdoor setting speaks “winner” to any casual observer.
If al fresco isn’t your thing, you can climb a short set of white trimmed stairs to the restaurant’s entrance. Inside, wood tables, dark brown chairs, and a row of white trimmed grey and taupe booths provide comfortably ample seating.
This local neighborhood favorite serves up classic American and Southern California dishes. The Cottage has been featured in ZAGAT surveys, Epicurious, Departures Magazine, La Jolla Village News, and San Diego’s Luxury Lifestyle Magazine. Awards include Best Breakfast, Best Sunday Brunch, Best Family Restaurant, Best Omelet, Best Lunch, not to mention a favorite menu item deserving your personal award.
The kitchen presents a New American and Southern California style with a twist. The all-important breakfast menu features American classics, including fresh juices, breads and pastries, scrambles, eggs benedicts, eggs with meat platters, and omelets. SoCal selections include south of the border influences like the popular Chilaquiles. For a powerhouse start to your day try the Fried Egg Sandwich with bacon.
Classic American and SoCal lunch items include small plates like house-made guacamole, crab cakes, and crisp calamari and more. The Sesame Ahi Tuna Nachos are the perfect example of seafood ala twist. Diners can choose from a vegan-healthy selection of fresh salads and popular sandwiches like the Albacore Tuna Melt, Cottage Club, and Grilled Chicken Sandwich. The L.A. Burger is a top choice among guests. The Mahi Tacos and Seared Ahi Lettuce Wraps large plates are also popular.
Dinnertime at The Cottage adds eight additional large plates to the menu, and features meatloaf, salmon, steak, polenta, fish of the day, and fish tacos. The Crispy Buttermilk Boneless Fried Chicken dishare ravers. The Cottage also has a great breakfast, lunch, and dinner menu for finicky kids with pancakes, French toast, PB&J, grilled cheese, cheeseburger sliders, and chicken fingers.
During a 2009 renovation owner Jason Peasley mindfully installed a handicap lift and ADA accessible bathrooms. The Cottage provides both kids’ menus and highchairs. There is plenty of room to welcome large groups, and the entire restaurant can be reserved for special events after their lunch rush. With a nod to the past and a stress free dining experience, there is no Wi-Fi, and no distracting televisions in the restaurant. Parking is limited to street parking. Bike parking available.
Note: They do not have a full bar, but do serve wine, beer, and mimosas; Bloody Marys made with rice vodka are also available. For more info, go to Cottagelajolla.com.
